How to Inspect Your Roof for Wildlife Entry Points (Safety First)
Key Takeaways
- • Inspect from the ground with binoculars first to avoid ladder risks.
- • Look for lifted shingles, bent vents, and grease marks on fascia.
- • Check the 'soffit returns' where lower roofs meet upper walls.
- • If you see a hole, do not seal it until you verify no animals are inside.
Your roof is your home’s primary shield against the elements, but it is also the frontline in the battle against nuisance wildlife. Raccoons, squirrels, bats, and birds all view your roof not as a barrier, but as a landscape of potential opportunities.
Most homeowners don’t look at their roof until there is a leak. By then, wildlife may have been living in your attic for months. Regular inspections—at least twice a year in spring and fall—can catch animal entry attempts early, saving you thousands in damage repair.
You don’t necessarily need to climb a ladder to do this. Here is a professional guide to inspecting your roof for wildlife, starting safely from the ground.
Step 1: The Ground Inspection (Safety First)
Before you even think about a ladder, grab a good pair of binoculars. Walk the perimeter of your house and scan the roofline systematically.
What to look for:
- The Ridge Line: Scan the very peak of the roof. Is the ridge vent (the cap along the top) lying flat? Raccoons often rip these plastic or metal vents up to squeeze underneath. If you see a section that looks humped or bent, you have a problem.
- Shingles: Look for torn, missing, or chewed shingles. Raccoons can rip shingles off to get to the wood deck below.
- Drip Edge: Look at the metal edge of the roof. Is it tight against the fascia board? Squirrels often chew the gap between the drip edge and the gutter.
Step 2: The “Soffit Return” (The #1 Weak Spot)
If you have a multi-level home, pay special attention to where a lower roofline meets an upper wall. There is usually a small section of soffit (the underside of the eave) tucked into that corner. This is called a soffit return or “pork chop.”
This is the single most common entry point for squirrels and raccoons.
- Why? Animals can sit comfortably on the lower roof and work at the soffit in the corner. It is private, sheltered, and usually made of thin vinyl or aluminum.
- The Sign: Look for the soffit panel being pushed up, hanging down, or missing entirely. Look for dirty smudges on the wall above it.
Step 3: Vents and Chimneys
Every hole cut into your roof for ventilation is a potential door for animals.
- Gable Vents: These are the louvered vents on the side of the house near the peak. Is the screen behind the louvers intact? Birds and bats love these. Look for whitewash (bird droppings) or brown staining (bat guano) on the siding below the vent.
- Roof Turbines/Box Vents: Are they spinning? Is the base secure? Raccoons can pull these right off the roof.
- Chimney: Does it have a cap? A chimney without a cap is just a hollow tree to a raccoon or a swift. If you have a cap, is the screen rusted or torn?
Step 4: The “Rub Mark” Clue
Animals are dirty. Their fur is coated in natural oils and dirt. As they squeeze through a hole repeatedly, they leave behind a greasy, brown or black smudge called a rub mark or sebum stain.
- On White Trim: These marks are very obvious on white fascia boards or vinyl siding. If you see a dirty smudge near a corner or a gap, something is using that hole regularly.
- On Brick: Bats leave very subtle brown staining on brick where they enter.
Step 5: The Ladder Inspection (Proceed with Caution)
If you spot something suspicious and feel comfortable using a ladder, take a closer look. Safety Warning: Never walk on a steep roof. Inspect from the ladder at the eaves.
- The Chew Test: Look at the edges of a hole. Are they jagged and rough? That indicates chewing (squirrels/rats). Are they torn and bent outward? That indicates brute force (raccoons).
- The Smell: Put your nose near a vent. Do you smell ammonia (urine) or a musky odor? That’s a sure sign of habitation.
The “Seal Test” (Crucial!)
If you find a hole, DO NOT seal it immediately.
This is the biggest mistake homeowners make. If you seal the hole while the animal is inside (sleeping during the day), you trap them. They will panic and chew through your ceiling drywall to escape into your living room, or they will die in your walls.
The Paper Test: Loosely stuff the hole with a ball of newspaper or tape a piece of paper over it. Wait 48 hours.
- If the paper is pushed out or torn: The animal is still active. You need to trap them or use a one-way door.
- If the paper is untouched: The hole might be abandoned, but proceed with caution. In winter, animals may sleep for days without exiting.
If you find signs of entry, the safest bet is to call Critter Removal of Louisville. We can confirm if the animal is present and install exclusion devices that let them out but stop them from getting back in.
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